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The vibration is substantially less than my Bosch,but it gets so hot that you can only use it a few minutes before you have to let it cool down for 20 minutes. This is a very heavy constructed piece of equipment. It feels good in your hand,although it feels twice as heavy as my Bosch,which means that you don't have to apply any pressure to sand as the weight of the machine does a good job of that. I tried to use it longer, thinking that it would reach a peak and I could bear that,but that is not the case ,it just keeps getting hotter and hotter and hotter. It would be good for frying eggs,and making coffee.
It took less than 15 minutes to return to my old 330 to finish the job. Hook and loop paper might be a better choice but the H&L paper in 4x4 sheets is not readily available. Have been using the 330 for 15 years Yes the same one all this time. The glue on paper tends to tear the pad when removing. If you insist on using this type of tool for sanding drywall then expect it to clog and possibly burn up. For shier cutting, power and sanding ability nothing I have used in over 30 years of carpentry can match the Porter Cable 330 palm sander when a palm sander is the tool of choice. For this reason I buy the pads in multiples from Amazon.
Palm sanders are defiantly not made for sanding drywall. I borrowed a new Dewalt random orbit sander to repair the handrails and posts on an old deck. I have read many reviews of palm sanders in which the user complains that they have trouble with them when sanding drywall. On the downside the Sticky pad for this sander does not hold up well. I purchased a new pad when I started this rail and post job and a week later I trashed it. You would not use a hacksaw for cutting lumber, would you. Use the proper tool for the proper job.
My Milwaukee palm sander finally died after years of faithful service, and I replaced it with this Porter-Cable model after reading the reviews. Yeah, you can use a screwdriver, but hey for $100 can't they design a metal arm or finger that can be pushed or pulled to open the jaws of the clamps (like my old Milwaukee). Some have stated this is kinda lame, but I don't think so.
The placement of the ON/OFF switch is really nice since it's located right where your fingers are as you hold the unit. In this case, you have to slip the paper under the clamping mechanism that holds the paper in place. It is quieter than the Milwaukee and a lot easier on the hand because there's not as much vibration transfered to the housing that you grip when you hold it.
Unless you want to spend $6 for 15 sanding sheets, you're going to use a regular old sheet of sandpaper that you rip into four pieces, i.e., you're not going to use adhesive-backed paper. You don't have to fumble around or look for the switch at all. The only beef I have is the same mentioned by a couple of others.
I can't imagine why Porter Cable didn't incorporate the clamp tool mechanism into the sander itself rather than supplying a separate tool. That's kinda lame.
The sander is very heavy, feels like an old time tool. It takes some time to get used to the paper clamps but sands flush to a wall on all 4 sides. when they built tools with metal. The outer housing is isolated from the metal frame with rubber mounts and trasmits very littel vibration to the hand. This is the best palm/finish sander I have ever seen, used, or owned; and I have owned a lot. Also, recieved quickly and as advritized froom tool-king
i live in venezuela, and this sander don't sale here, it's realy a very good machine, if you want low noise and excelent perfor buy this sander
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